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Saturday, June 6, 2015

Ugly Underthings

So, petticoats are a must. They add that extra umph to a full outfit, hiding the bones in your hoopskirt (Oh! What a faux pas!) and smoothing the bumps in your humps when you dare to wear a bustle.

Picture borrowed from here

Swan Sheild


Martin Schongauer  Shield with Swan, Held by Woman, c. 1480/1490  Rosenwald Collection  1943.3.82  Love the one-sleeve idea....
Schongauer, Martin
German, c. 1450 - 1491
Shield with Swan, Held by Woman
c. 1480/1490

I love this gown. Theres not much to go on, from what I see, there are at least two gowns. Under dress with 3/4 sleeves, like a chemise or cotehardie. Overdress something like a houpplande, voluminous skirts and one full art, the other sleeveless with three dagged lengths hanging from the sleeve-head. 


Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Truly Victorian Imperial Bustle

Im using some Truly Vic patterns to start with another Project, my Eye Watering Plaid dress. First things first, a Proper Large derriere. 

This is my fabric, a lovely polished synthetic that looks like carnivorous alien plant life: 



And of course I have the amazing pattern by Truly Victorian, 


Sunday, May 17, 2015

Tobelsa, Letting Gender Confusion Go

So, my son can be defined as a typical boy. Dirty, whiny, running on some kind of nuclear battery that never ends, and adorable. He's also, if you want to put a name to it, on the autism spectrum. This is a HUGE spectrum, from people who are socially awkward (Yeah, thats a thing) to people who are violent and incapable of functioning without major assistance. My boy is a realm unto himself, as are all autistic children. I worked as a special ed admit for a few years and am familiar with the children who are slotted into the 'special' category and lemme tell ya, he is something else all together.



Sunday, March 22, 2015

Abraham Lincoln Funeral: The Boy's Costume

In may here in Springfield Il, there is going to be reenactment of Lincoln's Funeral. The whole shebang with the calvary, and civilians. Some people are going to do it full on. Hand made costume, setting up tents, going full monty. (Not naked, mind you. Fully clothed full monty)

I am not that dedicated. I will hand sew hems til my fingers bleed but I can't seem to make myself buy twelve yards of really good cotton/wool/silk, when I have SO FREAKING MUCH POLY that would do the job perfectly. Im in the mindset that if it Looks like it could be accurate, its accurate enough. Part of that comes from my noncomformist streak, part comes from the beautiful fabrics I already have which are not 'technically period' and lastly, Im cheap. Seriously. I can make a gown just as easily from a duvet cover as brocade and I can almost certainly say no one will have a gown like mine.

(Not that they would WANT to, but still.)

So, I will be gowned appropriately (In my eyes) and have decided to garb my son as well. I gotta tell you, looking for kids photos from the Civil war era is HARD. Oh, not that they arn't there, oh there are TONS.

Just half of them are POST MORTEM.

Yeah, nothing worse then trying to judge seams when you can't see through the haze of tears because that is just a baby. It makes sense, to try and preserve the memory of a loved one, but my god is hard for a mother to look through. Anyway, at least I found this NOT POST MORTEM photo.

CDV Victorian Boy by C T Newcombe of London Lovely Lighting c1860s Photograph | eBay

I took this idea into making my son a costume. I used a Burda pattern as a base to keep my pieces the proper size, but cut... well, creatively.

Heres a selection of photographs as I went through and made this costume


Originally it was this nice, inoffensive beige scratchy wool like fabric. I can't even begin to guess what kind of fabric it is lol. I wanted something a bit more sombre, so I thought about dying it. 

There is actually a TON of research and historical accuracy about dying clothes in civil war era. When it was too expensive to make all new wardrobes for the mourners, they through original outfits into dye-bins and made them black. I used a cheap dye kit from Walmart and dyed the whole thing. I know, I know. Your supposed to dye just a bit to see if it'll work, but heck if I can't even make a muslin Im sure as heck not waiting to dye something! Anyway, it turned out better than I hoped: 



This really nice dark grey, pebbled fabric. Somber and still not as stark and pure black. Yay! 



Then after this point it was mostly hand work. Hemming, button holes, and such. 











I plan on getting a slouchy hat and black boots but after that, he's all done!

Friday, December 5, 2014

Ariels Pink Dress Tutorial Three


For the back closure I knew three things.

1) No zippers. I dont have anything against them, as a whole, trust me. But in my costumes an obvious zipper just kinda sticks out badly.

2) No buttons. A thousand buttons like seed pearls swooping down the spine in a row looks gorgeous... but have you ever tried to sew those suckers on? omg. And image, getting INTO and OUT OF the dress!? So, no buttons.

3) Buttons and zippers are the only things I had experience with.

There is a third option. But it involves... murder...


DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUUUN


No, I jest. it involves lacing.