HSM Challenge One Sarcastically Dancing Skeletons; Also Cardinals in the Birch



The Challenge:January: Firsts & Lasts – Create either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.
Material: Cotton novelty fabric from Joanns, thrift shop raw linen, plain cotton
Pattern: Simplicity 8162 stays and chemise
Year: 1800s 
Notions: thread, bias tape, eyelets, zip ties, lace hem tape, lace, ribbon; grosgrain ribbon;
How historically accurate is it? Like, linen is fairly accurate, hand sewn 50% of the stays so maybe 20%? The eyelets are definitely not even remotely accurate. Neither is the machine sewing, or the zip ties.
Hours to complete: Two weeks, working idly on it while doing other things... maybe 20 hours total?
First worn: not yet
Total cost: 20 bucks for boning, notions and bias table, thread and fabric from stash. 



Firstly, this is what I like to call, my 'working' muslin. I dont like sewing muslins so what I do is sew a version for someone else to give away and then make my own. That way I work through any issues and am better at sewing mine. (Sometimes I just make two versions of something, like a wearable muslin but this time the nieces wanted in on it so...)

I used the half boning pattern printed on the stays, no adjustments, size 10 and 12. Self drafted stomacher, zip tie boning, with three layers of fabric for stability. The eyelets I just punched in for time, my nieces were not interested in making their own. These pieces are the Firsts, the beginning of the 'underwear' for their 18th century gowns, soon to come. 

I always start the corset first, for many reasons. Mainly because its the most interesting piece and usually the one Im most excited to sew. Chemise are INFINATELY easier to sew but not very interest-catching. So I start the corset, and when Im mind-numbingly bored of boning and measuring and sewing line after line, I take a break and sew up the chemise.  Both chemise are from sheets, with stash lace. 

Hoops. Ok, this pattern has a nice big rump piece but Im making panniers so I used another simplicity pattern, scaled down to make the red hips. Then I found another blogger (The Awesome Amazing Seamstress of http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/) who sewed up the MOST ADORABLE pocket hoops the PERFECT size. So I eyeballed a little, and made the second hips. 

These are my nieces pieces, and can be reused for future costumes if they're not interested in keeping them, but I also did the first set of undies for the Mother Dress.

My maternal inspiration, my mother, is going to have Truly Big Hips, and Truly Big Hair and is going to have a truly big time. So, I made her the stays and hips to match herself.



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